Bonny Doon The Old Telegram 2016
Under the law of Hong Kong, intoxicating liquor must not be sold or supplied to a minor in the course of business.
This wine is a bruiser. There's no other way to say it. We aim to produce wines of elegance and finesse, but sometimes Mother Nature just presents one with a Monster. Very, very concentrated fruit in the nose - blackberry, cassis and Damson plum, as well as a leavening of licorice. This is a dark wine in every sense; if you are a synaesthete, you will taste the dark, round tones of the oboe. The wine is made entirely from very old vines in Oakley - 56% Evangelho, 24% Enea, 20% Del Barba. I don't reckon it to be an Old Telegram to put away. But this will put you (and your guests) away. Drink sensibly
While Bonny Doon Vineyard began with the (in retrospect) foolish attempt to replicate Burgundy in California, Randall Grahm realized early on that he would have far more success creating more distinctive and original wines working with Rhône varieties in the Central Coast of California. The key learning here (achieved somewhat accidentally but fortuitously) was that in a warm, Mediterranean climate, it is usually blended wines that are most successful. In 1986 Bonny Doon Vineyard released the inaugural vintage (1984) of Le Cigare Volant, an homage to Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and this continues as the winery’s flagship/starship brand.
Since then, Bonny Doon Vineyard has enjoyed a long history of innovation – the first to truly popularize Rhône grapes in California, to successfully work with cryo-extraction for sundry “Vins de Glacière, the first to utilize microbullage in California, the first to popularize screwcaps for premium wines, and, quite significantly, the first to embrace true transparency in labeling with its ingredient labeling initiative. The upside of all of this activity has brought an extraordinary amount of creativity and research to the California wine scene; the doon-side, as it were, was perhaps an ever so slight inability to focus, to settle doon, if you will, into a single, coherent direction.1
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2003B, 20/F Arion Commercial Centre,
2-12 Queens Road West, Sheung Wan
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